How this refresh rate test works
The page measures how often your browser draws a new frame and converts that into Hz. It reports the median rate, the minimum and maximum, jitter (how uneven the frame timing is) and the number of dropped frames. A healthy 144 Hz monitor shows about 144 with tiny jitter.
The motion test moves a bar across the screen at a speed you choose. A frame-skip indicator flags the moments when a frame was late. Click Re-measure at any time, for example after you change a setting. Everything runs locally in your browser and nothing is uploaded.
How to read the results
- Median Hz. This is your effective refresh rate. Common values are 60, 75, 120, 144, 165, 240. A reading slightly off, such as 59.94 or 143.98, is normal.
- Min and max. A wide gap means the browser or system is struggling. Close heavy tabs and test again.
- Jitter. Under about 1 ms is excellent. High jitter makes motion look stuttery even at a high refresh rate.
- Dropped frames. A few at the start are normal while the page warms up. Steady drops mean the machine is overloaded or in a power-saving mode.
- Motion test. On a good high refresh screen the bar looks clear. At 60 Hz it looks softer and steps more. Use a faster speed to see differences.
Monitor stuck at 60 Hz? Try these fixes
- Set the rate in Windows. Go to Settings → System → Display → Advanced display and choose the refresh rate from the list. Windows often defaults to 60 Hz after you plug in a new monitor.
- Check the cable. HDMI 1.4 is usually limited to 60 Hz at 1080p and 30 Hz at 4K, HDMI 2.0 handles 4K at 60 Hz and 1080p at 144 Hz, and DisplayPort is the safest choice for high refresh. Use the cable that shipped with the monitor.
- Turn on the monitor's own setting. Some monitors need a menu option such as Overdrive, Adaptive Sync or a "144 Hz" mode switched on.
- Update the GPU driver and use the right port. Plug into the graphics card, not the motherboard video output.
- Disable battery saver. Laptops cut the refresh rate on battery. Plug in and set the power mode to Best performance.
- Browser and macOS. On a Mac with ProMotion, use System Settings → Displays → Refresh Rate. Chrome and other browsers may cap animation at 60 fps in low-power mode or in background windows.
- Multi-monitor setups. A slow second monitor can drag down the main one in some browsers. Unplug it and measure again.
Why test your refresh rate
Manufacturers advertise the maximum rate, but your computer may not actually use it. A test shows whether you are really getting what you paid for before you blame games or hardware. It also helps you compare screens in a shop and confirm that a setting change worked.
Frequently asked questions
How do I check my monitor refresh rate?
Open this page and wait a few seconds. The median Hz value is the rate your browser is drawing at. You can also look in your operating system's display settings.
Why does my 144Hz monitor show 60Hz?
The most common causes are the Windows display setting still on 60 Hz, a cable that cannot carry 144 Hz, or a laptop in battery saver mode. Fix the setting first, then check the cable.
Is 59.94 Hz the same as 60 Hz?
Yes. Many screens run at 59.94 Hz for historical video reasons, and the difference is not visible.
Does the browser limit the refresh rate?
Sometimes. Background tabs and power-saving modes can reduce the frame rate. Keep the tab in front and plug in a laptop for an accurate reading.
What are dropped frames and jitter?
A dropped frame is one the screen showed late or skipped. Jitter is how much the time between frames varies. Both make motion feel less smooth.
Which cable do I need for 144Hz?
DisplayPort is the safest. HDMI 2.0 or newer also works for 144 Hz at 1080p and 1440p on many monitors.
Does my laptop lower the refresh rate on battery?
Some laptops do, to save power, switching a high refresh rate screen to 60 Hz or lower when unplugged. Check the power mode and display settings, and run the test both plugged in and on battery.
Why does an external monitor connected through an adapter show the wrong Hz?
Many adapters and docks have limited bandwidth and cannot carry high resolution at high refresh rates. Use a direct HDMI 2.0 or DisplayPort cable, or an adapter that explicitly supports your resolution and refresh rate.